Seduced via the Stomach: Burgundy!

Being the oenophile I am, I still get quite uncomfortable when presented with a wine list comprised mostly of French wines.  Arguably the best in the world (I would contest that Italy actually reigns supreme), if I am to truly dominate my hobby I needed to tackle this challenging region.  Thus, in 2014 I set out to visit a couple of the most infamous regions to improve my vocabulary.  First stop Burgundy!

Burgundy is a large region Southeast of Paris … it starts to the north in Chablis and continues south across draping slopes that create some of the most expensive wines in the world.  This is largely white wine territory, and the smoky Chardonnays are not my taste.  The reds are nearly all Pinot Noir, which tend to be quite light in colour and flavour … this place had its work cut out for it!

I picked up the car from the Orly airport outside Paris and hit the highway to Chablis.  From that point forward it was nothing but winding country roads through farmland and small stone villages.  March is still off season for this area that attracts tourists in droves from May through September, and so for the most part I had the road (and the towns!) all to myself.

Jambon à la Chablisienne

Burgundy is also known as a foodie paradise, and this trip was as much about gastronomy as wine.  So, first stop was lunch for the local ham in Chablis wine sauce “Jambon à la Chablisienne”.  Looking back it was the best meal of the trip.  That creamy sauce drenching the juicy ham, sided by perfectly cooked potatoes and a glass of the local Chablis, was divine.  Picked up one souvenir bottle of Chablis  – not as smoky as the white Burgundys and it’s my second fave just after Sauvignon Blanc.

From there I toured through the fields that yield the region’s Premier Crus … no leaves yet on the vines, so the views were sweeping dry land interwoven with the emerald green fields of rapeseed just starting to sprout.  I should have expected it, but was somewhat surprised how agricultural the region was … this is not your snooty, loafer-wearing wine crowd one would envision of the region, but down and dirty tracker driving locals and very rural.  There were numerous tractors in the field tending to their precious crops, just sprouting their Spring growth.

Boeuf de Charolais

After an amazing sunset closed the warm day, I spent my first night in Beaune - the capitol of Burgundy country and the first place with a little bit of activity.  Here for dinner, while planning the next day's route, I tried a steak of the local Charolais beef (In April 2010 Boeuf de Charolles was granted an Appellation Contrôlée) along with the most amazing creamy buttery cheese sauce ever experienced. The fuzzy peach-coloured cows are so cute along the road (though I think they are a bit shy for the camera, and the guy on the left was downright annoyed).  I splurged on a bottle of Pommard Premier Cru … and ate real slow.  Wow.  The wine was delicious and from that point forward I shall always look for a Pommard on those menus that scared me a bit.



Early to bed, and in the morning I browsed the Patisseries (desserts), Fromageries (cheese), Boulangeries (bread), and Boucheries (meat) in this foodie town.  I picked up a little from each place for a little picnic later in the day, as well as a exemplary bottle of Cote d’Nuits Premier Cru as a souvenir bottle for the collection.  Of course this wasn’t your average snack!  From the butcher I braved the language gap to order a slice of the Jambon Persillé, which is a terrine of ham and parsley (I hope) and some local Epoisses cheese (semi-stink) – both exemplary of foods only found in the region of Borgogne.

Jambon Persillé and Epoisses cheese

The roads south of Beaune proved quiet as well … Google Maps just happens to be amazing, so I found myself travelling on gravel paths through the fields of grapes, topping sweeping views of the region (I thought maybe I was trespassing at some points!).  I found myself at an old chateau hanging off cliffs to crack open that snack I got in town.  It didn’t disappoint!

To be honest, nearly all the “caves” were closed (where one would taste the local wine) and that was disappointing, but I tried to not let it get to me.  The drive was beautiful, the food yummy, and it felt as if I had gone back in time.  After a last stop in Pouilly-Fuissé just to say I had been there, I hit the highway to Lyon with a lot more wine knowledge in my head and a full tummy … 

 

 

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